IL BORGHETTO, CLANTE, IGP, TUSCANY, ITALY, 2015
The Azienda Agricola Il Borghetto do things differently in this most well known and established region of Italy.
Led by English winemaker Tim Manning who cut his vinous teeth in vintages in Oregon, there is a determination to show the potential of the region. As a result he is at odds with the Consorzio of Chianti Classico over his methods and approach.
All the daily operations are keenly overseen by the owner, Antonio Cavallini with the help of long-term collaborator Tim Manning, a British oenologist who has worked extensively with Pinot Noir in New Zealand and above all, in Oregon. There are about twenty or so small blocks of Vineyard at Il Borghetto, each differing slightly from the other, be it in grape variety or clone, or a difference in soil type and slope aspect. They treat each one as a separate entity so that their individual characters can contribute a particular something to the final blend.
Stati Generali dei Vigneti (literally, the general state of the vineyards) was an original idea to produce a completely unique wine that represents a snapshot of the very best grapes from all of the Borghetto vineyards from one single day. To that end, when they think the moment is right, they harvest literally a hand-full of the very best bunches of grapes from each and every parcel of vineyards. Those bunches are then fermented as 100% whole clusters. Harvested, by hand, only the best clusters - those with fully legnified stems and perfect berries - in each vineyard are gently crushed by foot, followed by a long maceration in an open bin and skin contact for 42 days. Only one 500 litre tonneau is produced, which means less than 500 bottles and a few magnums. This wine is only sold through allocation, with a maximum of 90 bottles and 12 magnums in each country.
Time: 24 Months
Type: French Oak 500 litre
% wine oaked: 100
% new oak: 100
Clante is the name the Etruscans gave to the hills now called Chianti Classico This wine is a barrel selection of the finest of Borghetto's Sangiovese and represents the best their vineyards have to offer. Powerful and punchy, with tons of whole cluster character, this wine has a lot to offer. Orange peel, star anise, mint and spice add a distinctive element of exoticism. The Clante lives in its own realm, a world completely apart from the norm in Chianti Classico. More importantly, it is an absolutely compelling wine.
Slow cooked wild boar stew, or well hung pheasant.
Robert Parker 94 Points
The 2015 Clante is a terrific red wine with a level of clarity and purity that is nothing short of remarkable. You truly appreciate each detail of the wine, from its precise aromas of wild cherry, rose and tilled earth. All of these delicate nuances find perfect unison and balance and create seamless transitions. This is a complicated wine to make, but it's a beautiful wine to drink. S.G.D.V. stands for "Stati Generali dei Vigneti," or the general state of the vineyards, and the ten parcels used to source the blend of fruit are listed on the back label, along with technical information about yields and pH measures for each site. ML, 94 Points, May 2019